Bal was never just a designer; he was a storyteller who wrote his tales in fabric and thread, writes Soniya Kirpalani
In the vibrant tapestry of Indian fashion, some threads shimmer more brilliantly than others. I’ll never forget my first encounter with one such golden thread – a young man with dancing eyes and an infectious smile who simply said, “Hi, I am Rohit Bal, but you can call me Gudda.” Fresh from his triumphant debut show at Ensemble Mumbai, he stood before me, his talent radiating like sunshine through monsoon clouds, yet somehow unaware of his own brilliance.
That day, I fell in love with his black jacket adorned with copper-gold paisley motifs – a piece that spoke of Kashmir’s soul in every stitch. He couldn’t even calculate the cost of the outfit. Few days later, he reluctantly and shyly quoted 36,000 INR. I gawked!! It was 1990, and at that time was the price of a suburban Mumbai apartment. He went on to give me a breakdown, patiently explaining the costs, right there I knew I was investing not just in clothing, but in a piece of history in the making. That’s who Gudda was – creating masterpieces before he even knew their worth. And most importantly, he wanted to offer value to his clients.
Bal was never just a designer; he was a storyteller who wrote his tales in fabric and thread. A history graduate who never really studied design, he spoke the language of Indian craftsmanship with native fluency, turning traditional motifs into contemporary poetry. His strength flowed from family – his brother managed his production, his sister standing steadfast beside him with the retail side – while pioneers like Rohit Khosla and Tina Tahiliani helped illuminate his path.
Our friendship was an unlikely harmony – me, a teetotal vegetarian, and him, fashion’s celebrated ‘Bad Boy.’ Behind the flamboyant persona that the world knew, I witnessed the gentle Kashmiri soul, contemplative and passionate, whose every creation was a love letter to his craft. I saw him fall in love and rise out of heartbreak and hold dignified loyalties. We were bound by something deeper: a fierce devotion to preserving India’s vanishing artistic heritage.
The fashion world often painted Tarun Tahiliani and Rohit Bal as rivals, but reality told a different story. Their competitive spirit was overshadowed by their mutual respect and shared vision. Together with Gitanjali Kashyap and Ritu Kumar, they birthed the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) – not just an organization, but a sanctuary where Indian fashion could spread its wings and soar globally. It transcended its role as a mere industry body. It became a sacred space where ancient craftsmanship met contemporary innovation, where emerging talent and India’s artisans and weavers found their voice.
He understood that for Indian fashion to truly flourish, it needed more than just designers – it needed an ecosystem that nurtured creativity, preserved tradition, and built bridges between India’s artistic heritage and the modern world. This was Bal at his most visionary, creating pathways for future generations of designers, supporting the soul of Indian craftsmanship to emerge. Bal continued weaving a tapestry of cultures and talents that reshaped perceptions and my own life took me to new places. It was a transformative time for me too. Edged on by TT and Bal, I started my own venture: A Style Statement. This was Asia’s first online platform, a dream to unite diverse South Asian talent from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and the UAE onto an international stage. This is when I realized how fiercely loyal Bal was. Rohit became my mentor and was one of the first to send his collections, setting a standard of excellence and trust.
Rohit’s work remained a touchstone—a tribute to the enduring beauty of friendship of an unparalleled designer. So, when I walked to pick up my 1st big film award in Cannes, I was wearing Rohit Bal, a fitting tribute to a man who brought India into the heart of global fashion. Then again for my most important moments in life, I wear either Rohit Bal or Tarun Tahiliani, it is my way of holding on to a legacy of artistry and innovation that continues to inspire mw. Sadly post 2020, I haven’t attended any shows, Rohit too took a back seat. Until his final show in October 2024.
“Kaaynaat: A Bloom in the Universe” this was pure poetry in motion. Roses, peacocks, and horses danced across fabrics, as did a visibly unwell Rohit bal. But it was a finale and fitting goodbye. Today November 1, 2024, as Rohit Bal passed away, it wasn’t just the end of a life, but the closing of a magnificent chapter in Indian fashion. Bal leaves behind not just collections, but constellations – each design a star lighting the way for future generations. In his creations, I see not just clothes, but dreams woven into reality, not just patterns, but passages of India’s artistic soul.
Rest in peace, dear Gudda. You didn’t just design fashion; you designed dreams, preserved heritage, and showed us that true style flows from the heart. Your legacy blooms eternal, like the flowers you so loved to embroider – forever beautiful, forever inspiring, forever changing the landscape of what Indian fashion could be.